One Eye Charlie by Dorothea Lange. From Denim (Aurum Press)
More denim (see our Richard To The Rescue post of a couple of days ago) and how to wear it (above).
The above picture, taken in 1936, is by Dorothea Lange, who chronicled Depression-era America, and is of One Eye Charlie, a labourer in the pea fields of San Luis Obispo County, California. No fancy dan methods of wearing in raw denim for Charlie, one suspects. His jeans are quite possibly Lee Can’t Bust ‘Ems, a label that surely merits a revival, if only for the sake of its name.
More of the Autumn/Winter ’11 collection. An olive and burgundy tartan waxed cotton diamond quilt lined jacket, burgundy cashmere and silk roll neck, washed indigo slim cut jeans and brown suede Maddox hi-top sneakers.
Save for the roll neck knit (coming very soon…) , it’s all available at the Savile Row shop now.
Richard James slim cut Japanese raw selvedge denim jeans
Peter Asquith of London W1 asked Richard how to best wear in raw denim jeans. “I’m hearing different things,” he said.
“Wear them,” said Richard.
It’s a succinct, sensible piece of advice and, indeed, the most common answer we got when, via Twitter, we threw the question open to all. But we were also presented with a few interesting tricks and techniques, some of which we were familiar with and some of which we weren’t:
1. Take a bucket of cold water. Add 110ml (1/2 cup) white vinegar and 65g (1/4 cup) salt (optional). Mix and soak jeans for a couple of hours. Hang outside to dry to escape smell. Vinegar is a natural fabric softener. Go easy – very easy – on the washing.
2. Soak in water once and don’t wash them. (Which is all well and good until they begin to smell a little ripe… See 3 and 5.)
3. Dry clean only. And not very often. (Not so environmentally friendly, but good for retaining colour.)
4. Cycle in them. (From our experience this method works well, but can result in pronounced, remarked upon pale shading in the bottom and crotch areas.)
5. Place them in the freezer overnight from time to time. (Kills bacteria, they say, and so makes your unwashed jeans smell that little bit sweeter.)
6. Work out in your jeans. (Top tip for losing that initial full on stiffness.)
7. Curl up and read a book/watch TV in them. (Tried and tested slackers method.)
From the Autumn/Winter ’11 look book: the top half of a burgundy and grey Prince of Wales check suit, worn with a burgundy cashmere and silk roll neck, stone technical drill cotton trousers and brown two eye Derbys.
The suit is available at the Savile Row shop now and the rest will be there very soon.
Now and then. Just purple, green and pink knitted silk ties (above) left in the Bespoke shop. And not many of them either. In December of last year (below), there were rather more on display. Orange and yellow sold out particularly quickly. And so did black and brown. But fear not – more of each colour will be arriving very soon.
Little and large. Another look at goings on at Richard James Bespoke. The little ones are nail scissors which one of our cutters uses to keep his nails in shape (cracked and chipped nails can snag horribly on cloth) and as embroidery scissors for trimming threads and the like. And the large ones, you will possibly know by now, are shears and are used for cutting cloth.