Bespoke Diary – Cutting A Twisted Cloth

What we call at Richard James Bespoke cutting a twisted cloth.

Patterned cloth (herringbone, check, self stripe etc) is usually folded on the double before being cut on the single, one layer at a time, to ensure that the pattern is as well aligned on the different parts of the finished garment as possible. Stripes must meet and checks must converge…

To do this you need to line up the selvedge (bottom picture) on the cloth, which results in it becoming slightly ruched or rimpled where it is folded (top picture). Hence us calling it a twisted cloth. Incidentally, merchants supply patterned cloth rolled doubled over as it is easier to store and because they know it is likely to be cut on the double.

Here, we are cutting out the left and right foreparts (basically, the two front pieces) and side body of a suit coat. The cloth is a stunningly soft 10oz cashmere herringbone. After the first, top layer, has been cut out to get the first forepart, it will be pinned to the second, bottom layer and cut around to get the perfectly matching second forepart.

The extra work that goes into this is one reason why bespoke Savile Row suits made from patterned cloths take a little longer to make than those made from plain cloths.

Richard James bespoke Savile Row tailoring twisted cloth

Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailoring

Strum Up

Here’s one of Hannah’s hand-painted ukeleles being silkily strummed by Damien in the Savile Row store.

Hannah is doing a little work experience with us while she studies Fashion and Textile Design at Winchester School of Art. She makes her ukeleles to order and sells them on Etsy.

“I’ve always been musical,” she says. “I started playing the guitar at seven. I made my first ukelele for myself and then put it on Etsy to see what would happen. I’ve now sold over sixty of them and I offer all of my designs in Concert size as well as Soprano.”

Ukele Savile Row

Ukelele Savile Row

Ukelele Savile Row

Dandy Kim On Film

 

Here’s the hi-res video of our SS17 Dandy Kim presentation at London Collections: Men.

Our SS17 Dandy Kim collection snaps the brim of its toquilla straw hat down sharply and speeds across the shimmering, sun-slapped cyan sweep of the Straits of Florida to hedonistic 50s Havana…


60% Off Jackets In The Sale!

From a stand-out silk, virgin fleece and mohair jacket (right) to easy-wearing bombers and summer-ready shirt jackets…

60% OFF Richard James jackets in the Sale!

At the Savile Row store and Richard James Online.

Please note that sale prices do not apply to our classic, year-round tailoring and other items.

Richard James jacket - teal silk slub

Reel Inspiration – Rush

Rush tells the fascinating and – at times – terrifying story of the 1976 Formula 1 World Championship, where unruly playboy James Hunt (Chris Hemsworth) and super-serious Niki Lauda (Daniel Bruhl) go head-to-head for the biggest prize of all: the drivers’ title.

Displaying the glamour, intensity and danger of racing in the 1970s in an unrivalled fashion, the film revisits the style of the past while detailing one of the most iconic and memorable seasons in motorsport history.

Lauda’s analytical approach differs greatly to Hunt’s casual, rebellious and carefree attitude and things get heated between the two drivers both on and off the track.

The fiery battle, gripping drama and emotional heartbreak are just a few of the many captivating layers to the Hunt vs. Lauda story, captivating racing rookies and petrol heads alike.

Away from the race suits, it also showcases some super gear, not least a fine, richly hued teal shirt.

Richard James teal linen and cotton piquet shirt from the Savile Row store  and Richard James Online.

Chris Hemsworth teal shirt

 

 

Richard James shirt - teal

Oh You Pitti Things

We’re all set up at Pitti, where you will find us at G/1, Padiglione Centrale – Piano Attico until this Friday, 17th June.

Our SS17 Dandy Kim collection snaps the brim of its toquilla straw hat down sharply and speeds across the shimmering, sun-slapped cyan sweep of the Straits of Florida to hedonistic 50s Havana…

Richard James SS17 Pitti

Savile Row SS17 Pitti

Richard James SS17 Pitti

Sarpe Focus

Behind the scenes and focusing on detail at the London Collections: Men presentation of our SS17 Dandy Kim collection with super snapper Ani Sarpe.

Super styling by Kenny Ho.

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James LCM SS17

Richard James SS17 LCM

Richard James LCM SS17

 

Richard James SS17 LCM

Richard James LCM SS17

At London Collections

Richard James SS17 collection

Richard James SS17 collection

Richard James SS17 collection

Dandy Kim Revealed

Five looks from our SS17 Dandy Kim collection, which we’re presenting at the Savile Row store for London Collections: Men at this very moment…

See all twenty-four looks here.

Richard James SS17 Dandy Kim

Richard James SS17

Richard James SS17

Richard James SS17

Richard James SS17

Showtime

We’re nearly there… Our London Collections: Men presentation starts at 10.30am. Which is in ten minutes….

Richard James LCM

Richard James LCM