An explanatorily named fish cut sketched on the pattern (above) and made in the canvas (below) of a nice two-piece navy twill suit.
A good cutter will put a fish cut into the front, tummy region of a canvas (which helps structure and give overall definition to a suit) when he needs to create more shape and mould the cloth around the middle region of a portlier, more rotund gentleman. It works to ensure that the suit coat (jacket) really fits and doesn’t hang from the stomach like a skirt.
One of the more advanced, rather tricky techniques of bespoke Savile Row tailoring.
A worried face in the cutting room as the annual Richard James Easter egg hunt gets under way.
The Savile Row, Bespoke and Brushfield Street stores will be open as usual on Saturday 4th April, but closed on Friday 3rd and Monday 6th April for the Easter break. Richard James Online will be open as per usual, but we will not be able to offer our same day London delivery service on Friday 3rd or Monday 6th April.
Fine, full-on Frenchness as pleasure-seeeking Jean-Paul (Alain Delon) and Marianne’s (Romy Schneider) poolside frolics (their performance given extra edge by their previous off-set canoodlings) are interrupted by the arrival of her former fancy man Harry (Maurice Ronet) and his gauche, tease of a teenage daughter Penelope (Jane Birkin).
Cue (and no prizes for guessing) all sorts of desirous to-dos as the glistening, seductive surface of Jacques Deray’s beautifully shot and now beautifully restored La Piscine (1969) gives way to reveal the darker depths of the way we (or at least our French cousins) are. That and one of the most scorchingly stylish summer wardrobes on film to boot.
Just the job if you’re going to follow our advice and air your jacket or suit overnight before slipping it back in the wardrobe. And for ensuring you’re properly prepared for the day ahead with any cufflinks or baubles or the like safely and stylishly to hand.
The Gentleman’s Valet Company came to be in 2007 when bespoke furniture maker and former fashion photographer Sam Brown was commissioned to make a valet for a not unknown interior designer. He was very much taken by the result of his labours and decided to concentrate his efforts purely on making valets. Now he produces various models – to order and by hand in walnut or oak – in his workshop in Tottenham, north London.
Our very handsome example is the Skull Hatstand Valet in walnut. At approximately six weeks (or a bit under if you’re lucky), turnaround time for a standard valet is not a lot less than one of our own bespoke Savile Row suits, which will tell you how much work goes into it.
Cut from our beautifully balanced, modern classic Hyde block in a super-soft, subtly textured 100% wool hopsack.
Wear it with charcoal fine twill trousers, a deep pink Oxford tie and black Derbies (left), a Desert Rats knit, jeans and apron boots (centre) or a dark sand military shirt, grey cotton twill trousers and apron boots (right). All available now from the Savile Row store and Richard James Online.
All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon from Monday to Friday are now delivered on the same day.
Behind the scenes at this week’s SS15 Desert Rats shoot with super snapper Ani Sarpe (top, left), magnificent model Issac B of Models 1 (top, centre, naturally…) and scintillating stylist Irene (top, right).
And, below, pre-eminent make up man Nariman Pouranpir and the rest of the very talented Richard James team.