Reel Inspiration – Pool Of London

Everyday dodgy dealings in knock-off nylons and the like down the docks take a testing turn for the worse when Dan MacDonald (Bonar Colleano) finds himself hooked into a diamond heist and is presented with the choice of making a clean breast of it to the Old Bill or betraying his bosom buddy Johnny Lambert (Earl Cameron).

We watched Pool of London (Basil Dearden, 1951) when we were working on our current AW16 Chains + Cranes collection, which was inspired by London’s docks of the ‘thirties. Dearden’s fine film was set in the ‘fifties, but it’s semi-documentary approach gives an unbeatably atmospheric insight into the customs and workings of what were once the largest, most bustling and bountiful docks in the world.

Pool of London is also notable for the appearance of Cameron (still working at the age of 99) as Johnny Lambert, the first major role for a black actor in British film. His on screen romance with Susan Shaw (right, top) resulted in the film attracting the interest of the censors in the United States.

Pool of London on Richard James Savile Row tailor blog

Pool of London on Richard James Savile Row tailor blog

Pool of London on Richard James Savile Row tailor blog

The Denim Jacket

Our new denim jacket arrived at the store on Savile Row and at Richard James Online this week.

A sharply detailed everyday-classic.

And, possibly, a companion piece for our jeans, which are also made in England from the very same Japanese selvedge denim.

Simply the best denim there is, machine-stitched by real craftsmen.

FIT: Cut semi-slim for a clean-lined profile, yet with enough room to wear over a light knit in the cooler months. Cold washed once for ease of movement and a natural fit.

FABRIC: Made from a medium-weight 13oz shuttle-loom-woven rope-dyed selvedge denim from Okayama – aka Denim Central – Japan. The more you wear it, the more you will get out of it.

DETAIL: Machine stitched in England by real craftsmen and finished with subtly monogrammed Richard James Savile Row nickel buttons. Working cuffs and back adjusters. Classic pleated front.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

Richard James denim jacket

What’s In Store

Here’s our super, new 50m² store-within-a-store in the men’s formalwear department at Selfridges, which opened this morning.

You’ll find our made-to-measure tailoring as well as a full range of ready-to-wear – both seasonal and year-round classic pieces – and accessories on offer. Savile Row comes to Oxford Street…

The light, rather inviting space has been designed by Andy Martin Architecture and is based on the same award-wining design that the practice originated in 2014 for our flagship Savile Row store.

On Savile Row we’ve always worked hard to break down barriers and make what we do accessible as well as desirable, and our purpose-designed space at Selfridges now allows us to do exactly the same in a new environment.

Richard James Savile Row tailor at Selfridges

Richard James Savile Row tailor at Selfridges

Richard James Savile Row tailor at Selfridges

What To Wear And Where…

For when you really don’t know whether it’s going to rain or shine…

A light, weather-watchful look that will serve you well if you’re at home or away for the long holiday weekend.

A superbly waterproof English-made raincoat, an unbeatably adaptable Scottish-made 2-ply cashmere crew neck, easy-wearing English-made cotton twill trousers, perfectly-understated English-made suede sneakers, a must-have white tee and a refined and roomy English-made wool cheviot holdall.

Classic, perfectly practical pieces for every eventuality.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

Richard James Savile Row tailor weekend pick

Stay Lucky

We have the good fortune to have Peter Quinnell‘s Stay Lucky – forty-four fateful furculas – on the wall at Richard James Bespoke at the moment.

It has been said since the year dot that the wishbones of chickens and geese and suchlike contain luck-giving properties. But only when they are pulled by two people, with the recipient of the longer half having their pre-made wish come true.

So we should thank Peter for preserving these wishbones thus and passing up on the chance of so many strokes of luck for the sake of his art.

Peter Quinnell at Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

Peter Quinnell at Richard James Bespoke Savile Row tailor

New Shirts, New Collection!

Our trademark, sharply individual new-collection shirts are arriving at Richard James Online and the Savile Row store now!

And more to come soon…

Plain and cleanly defined, striped, checked or in an in-house designed print.

The new, sharp-edged AW16 Chains + Cranes collection takes inspiration from London’s cosmopolitan, all-powerful docks of the 1930s.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

AW16 Richard James shirts

Mood Picture

Here’s another look at the theme (below) and the moodboard (right) for our AW16 Chains + Cranes collection, which has just arrived at the Savile Row store and Richard James Online!

We put together a moodboard from various clippings and cuttings when we decide on the inspiration for a new collection. Basically, it serves to give us a feel of what it was we originally had in mind as things progress.

The traditionally overwritten, slightly hysterical theme is composed when the collection is complete and serves to define and elucidate and basically leave buyers, stockists and the press and the like in no two minds as to what it’s all about.

The two pictures below the moodboard are of looks six and fourteen from our AW16 LC:M show, which is where we unveiled the collection.

CHAINS + CRANES

Cinnamon, myrhh, and mace you showed, Golden Paradise birds that glowed.
More cigars than a man could count,
And a billion cloves in an odorous mount, And choice port wine from a bright glass fount. You showed, for a most delightful hour, The wealth of the world and London’s power.

John Masefield, Poet Laureate from 1930 until 1967, after visiting London’s docks.

Our AW16 Chains + Cranes collection sounds its horn hard, hoists the red ensign and puts its enticingly exotic cargo and correspondingly cosmopolitan crew in under a silver-grey sky at London’s docks in the midwinter of 1935.

By the mid ‘30s London had become the home of the largest port in the world and its bustling, bountiful, eight-and-a-half square mile docks were at the heart of it, the commerce coursing lifeblood of Albion and Empire alike.

Heavy with ropes and chains and wisely watched over by bowing cranes, this wondrously diverse world of chic, clean-lined cruise liners and colossal, chock-full container ships was the domain of the doughty dockers, a tight-knit, street-savvy band of men from the capital’s proud East End.

This is a bold, sharp-edged collection that celebrates London at its most powerful and all-encompassing, a great, clanking salt-corroded and colour-rich hive of industry and glamourous intrigue.

Both suiting and casual wear nod to the cool cachet of cruising the high seas and feature double-breasted jackets with wider lapels and patch pockets and wider, higher waisted trousers.

Warming wool, heavy British Melton and plush corduroy give weight and real texture. Oversize Prince of Wales checks and herringbone push forward. And chains and rope motif prints lend immediate focus and provenance.

Base colours of winter white, grey, glacial blue and navy are pierced and lifted by accents of rust orange, aqua and sage.

Join us as we explore an altogether alluring lost world of our great capital city and marvel at the wealth of the world and London’s power.

Richard James Savile Row tailor AW16 MOODBOARD

Richard James Savile Row tailor AW16

Richard James Savile Row tailor AW16

The New Collection Is Here!

Our new AW16 Chains + Cranes collection is arriving in-store on Savile Row and at Richard James Online now!

Fresh, new-season suits, coats, jackets, shirts… And more to come soon…

This is a distinct, sharp-edged collection that takes inspiration from London’s cosmopolitan, all-powerful docks of the 1930s.

All online orders addressed to London postcodes – E, SE, SW, W, NW, N – made by 12 noon UK time from Monday to Friday (excluding public holidays) can be delivered on the same day.

Richard James Savile Row tailor AW16 image

It Will Not Always Be Summer

A fine Susan Elliott skull on display in Richard James Bespoke.

The piece forms a part of Susan’s Green Man series of life-size resin human skulls. Covered with flora and fauna, they play, she says, with the idea of natural history and the archiving of specimens from nature.

This particular skull bears the Latin saying “Non semper erit aestas,” which translates to “It will not always be summer,” in other words “Prepare for hard times.” Or as we might put it on Savile Row, “Think belt and braces.”

Scouring the second-hand shops of seaside resorts and car boot fairs for materials, Susan combines the likes of kitchen crockery, novelty mugs and figurines with more traditional mosaic tesserae to create quirkily beautiful, multi-faceted and iconic pieces. ‘There’s a lot going on in my work,” she says. “My studio is like an archive of the nation’s mantelpieces and an affectionate collection of the kitsch and the idiosyncratic, within which I think there is an inherent beauty.”

Susan’s work is shown regularly at Mauger Modern in London and her pieces are held in private collections, and shown, in London, Paris, Venice, New York, Tokyo, Toronto, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Hong Kong and Miami.

Susan Elliott at Richard James Savile Row bespoke tailor

Susan Elliott at Richard James bespoke Savile Row tailor

Susan Elliott at Richard James bespoke Savile Row tailor

Blue Is The Colour

Mixing the right sea blue for a backdrop for a shoot for our AW16 Chains & Cranes collection, which will be in-store on Savile Row and online very soon…

Register with us to see it as soon as it arrives.

Our AW16 Chains & Cranes collection sounds its horn hard, hoists the red ensign and puts its enticingly exotic cargo and correspondingly cosmopolitan crew in under a silver-grey sky at London’s docks in the midwinter of 1935… 

Richard James Savile Row tailor backdrop

Richard James Savile Row tailor backdrop