What we call at Richard James Bespoke cutting a twisted cloth.
Patterned cloth (herringbone, check, self stripe etc) is usually folded on the double before being cut on the single, one layer at a time, to ensure that the pattern is as well aligned on the different parts of the finished garment as possible. Stripes must meet and checks must converge…
To do this you need to line up the selvedge (bottom picture) on the cloth, which results in it becoming slightly ruched or rimpled where it is folded (top picture). Hence us calling it a twisted cloth. Incidentally, merchants supply patterned cloth rolled doubled over as it is easier to store and because they know it is likely to be cut on the double.
Here, we are cutting out the left and right foreparts (basically, the two front pieces) and side body of a suit coat. The cloth is a stunningly soft 10oz cashmere herringbone. After the first, top layer, has been cut out to get the first forepart, it will be pinned to the second, bottom layer and cut around to get the perfectly matching second forepart.
The extra work that goes into this is one reason why bespoke Savile Row suits made from patterned cloths take a little longer to make than those made from plain cloths.